Ghislain Losier (aka Zig) 2011

New home wall

2011-06-19T12:09:00.002-04:00

Brian sending on the home wall just after construction (~1am). Over two evenings and with the help from my friend Brian the home wall was finally built. It is 50 degrees from vert. and 8' wide by 12' long. I can't wait to put some new holds and volumes on this woodie. This is the third home wall I've designed and built and by far the best one.

home wall

2011-04-22T21:31:00.002-04:00

Outdoor woodie Anthony and I built in two evenings after work while away in Mulgrave, NS. The wall measured 12' wide by 16' high. I have plans for a home wall that will be built in our garage this year. It will be 12' by 12' and maybe with variable angle.

Chebucto Foot project

2011-02-05T22:24:00.002-04:00

I just saw this photo by Rowan taken near Chebucto Foot (Chebucto Head, NS). The obvious arete is a project that Nick and I scoped years ago. We only attempted it one day due to the seriousness of the landing. Near the top of the arete is a legit shallow finger pocket that one will have to use. It is by the water before reaching Chebucto Foot and after the "Crevasse" area.

Strike 3 @ TB Woods (2003)

2011-01-30T00:49:00.002-04:00

This was shot by Anne Skidmore in 2003. This boulder has 3 cool problems all side by side. Hardly Easy (v9), Magnet (v9), and Strike 3 (v9). This was first put up by Sonnie Trotter in 2003 right after repeating Hardly Easy.

Welsford 1995

2011-01-13T21:20:00.002-04:00

Here's a photo dating back to 1995 (wow! already 15 yrs!). Leading is Mitch Leblanc on the classic "Leviathan" in Welsford, NB. The funny thing about this photo is that it actually shows Mitch "Z-clipping" the second bolt. Belaying is Chris Jones. This inseparable duo sent all the hard lines in Welsford then began putting up testpieces of their own such as Access Denied (5.13a), What's a paradigm (5.12+), Perfect (5.12b), and more.

2011

2011-01-09T02:23:00.002-04:00

After a great visit back east we are back at work in Calgary. I'm looking forward to 2011 with the wedding and continuing to discover the rockies.

Shown here is an old photo from 1995(?) in Hampton Marsh, NB climbing on "Hell's a poppin' 5.12c. Very few ascents or visits although that mini crag would have some desperate testpieces.

Cian's Echo, Lake Echo, NS

2010-09-19T13:47:00.004-04:00

Deep in the woods of Lake Echo, NS lies the crimp nightmare Cian's Echo! These were shot years ago when Ben and Rich attempted the line. Notice the stove for heat source. Sharp crimps and frozen fingers = pure pain!

Deja Vu @ LOC

2010-09-16T23:38:00.002-04:00

Chris Eager on Deja Vu (v6-8) @ LOC ~2001. Slightly high for short people to do the sit-start but the top-out is a true "NS top-out". Just the stand is a challenge by itself. Only few know where to find this gem...

Woodlot guidebook 1998

2010-09-16T23:36:00.000-04:00

2010-09-11T00:35:00.000-04:00

GL during the FA of Minute Papillon at Cheater's Head.

Minute Papillon (v9-10?) @ Cheater's Head (2003)

2010-09-07T23:25:00.003-04:00

Here is an obscure testpiece found at Cheater's Head across from Terence Bay. On a slightly overhanging wall close to the ocean are two problems. The left is an amazing ballsy v7 named Rogue Wave and to the right is a heinous crimp problem named Minute Papillon. On the last move of Rogue you make a long move where blowing it would result diving in the ocean! Here Chris Eager works on Minute Papillon (possibly still unrepeated, FA by GL)

Le Safari @ LOC ~ 1999

2010-09-07T01:24:00.004-04:00

I have some older photos (pre-digital) of bouldering in Halifax that I intend on posting here over the next few months. Enjoy! G

Shown here is Jeff Lockyer before the first ascent of Le Safari on the Jungle boulder in LOC. This photo was taken during the first session on it sometime in 1999 I believe. Doing first ascents in Halifax depends many times on having the vision of what is possible or might be possible. This was a good example. Observe only two scrubed holds on the lip...

Moving to townhouse

2010-08-23T22:50:00.003-04:00

Friday we move in to our townhouse. We are so psyched! Went camping last weekend in Radium. At kicking horse resort they had a small climbing wall that I had to jump on. If only they had these when I was 6!

Wild West

2010-07-13T20:47:00.003-04:00

Fiona and I have been living in Calgary for a month now. Things are good. Weather has been pretty aweful. I've climbed a few times outside and plan on visiting Prairie quite a bit this summer.

Nationals

2010-05-15T09:34:00.002-04:00

I'm getting psyched to fly to Toronto this Wednesday to set with a great crew for Nationals. I'm looking forward in catching up with some friends as Fiona and I will be moving to Calgary in less than a month. G

School's out! Back to climbing!

2010-04-18T23:15:00.002-04:00

I'm now done my college program! So happy to be done. I'm heading down to NH to visit some friends and do some bouldering in Pawtuckaway. Can't wait to get outside.
G

Old School

2010-03-02T23:50:00.002-04:00

Back in the day, I mean like 10 years ago, the crew finding new boulder problems in Halifax was very small. I guess the number of people who go out NOW and search for new boulders is probably still small. What I'm trying to get at is that even though I wrote a guidebook for Halifax bouldering there are quality boulder problems that were not included in the book. Some would argue that everything should be in a guidebook but I have my reasons for not doing so. Some of these gems are reached by long heinous hikes and all of that for maybe only one boulder and one quality line. But again some of these hidden blocs are equal to the best lines around Hfx. Pictured above is Chris Eager, an old school player, that was part of the gem hunting crew. The boulder problem is called Delivery Boy (v8) found in Musquodoboit Harbour. So good. Maybe some day someone will go there and repeat it...
G

GZ video qualifiers

2010-02-21T23:09:00.002-04:00

Pulldown's qualifier video from Ground Zero tour de bloc comp.

Results:
Ground Zero Tour de Bloc Local – Feb.13, 2010
Dartmouth, NS

Men's Open
Name; Score (top 8); Finals Tops (tries); Finals Bonus (tries)
1. Eric Sethna 2446 4(7)
2. Chris Richardson 2391 2(2) 4(4)
3. Ben Blakney 2135 2(5) 4(7)
4. Nathan Smith 1980 0 3(3)
5. Ben Smith 2141 0 3(5)
6. Liam Paull 2028 0 1(4)
7. Sean McDonah 1974 0 1(5)
8. Ian Whittaker 1961 0 0

9. Shawn Burchett 1875
10. Jon Bayne 1795
11. Mike Kohler 1760
12. Andy Fraser 1695
13. Lukey Buxton 1686
14. Aaron DesRoches 1601
15. Paul Rockwell 1560

Men's Experienced
1. Robert Paterson 1696
2. Mike Bullen 1676
3. Mick Levin 1650
4. Jamie Simpson 1582
5. Jason Rowell 1580
6. Mark Maas 1570
7. Jeremy Benjamin 1491
8. Carlos Wong 1296
9. Jason Kenney 1256
10. Khoa Le 1241
11. Roger 1167
12. Graeme Nott 1017
13. Frank Morin 820
14. Matt Labucki 815
15. Billy Meuse 801
16. Ian Whitman 761
17. Scott Galbraith 760
18. Graeme Young 655

Men's Recreational
1. William McMullin 1372
2. Christian Hapgood 1287
3. Adam Rayner 1095
4. Patrick Benjamin 1071
5. Mike Walsh 820
6. Trevor Schellinck 480

Women's Open
Name; Score (top 8); Finals Top (tries); Finals Bonus (tries)
1. Holly Reid 1765 3(5) 4(5)
2. Kate Smith 1315 2(2) 3(3)
3. Krissy Lunney 1116 1(1) 3(3)
4. Michelle Lloyd 1155 1(3) 2(4)
5. Jess Gilbert 1250 0 2(3)
6. Vicki French 1077 0 0

Women's Experienced
1. Elizabeth McBain 1060
2. Rolanda Steenweg 986
3. Kate Therien 835
4. Kyla MacNeil 800
5. Elizabeth Gilbert 765

Women's Recreational
1. Kristin Zinck 347

Juniors
name; score (top 8)
1. Guillaume Richard 1445
2. Taylor Kilgour 1386
3. Katherine Bearne 983
4. Emma-Sophia Rosen 807
5. Laura Scaravelli 678
6. Tegan Christensen 516
7. Lukas Willsie 365
8. Gretel Park 347

GZ Massacre

2010-02-14T18:47:00.003-04:00

Comp was great. Loved the way finals turned out. No ties and only one guy climbed all 4. Sean set up show lights that added a new ambience for the final show. Sean and I were just a bit concerned that the womens finals would be a bit too easy but in the end they were just right. For the mens I thought they might of been too hard but again it turned out perfect. Got to love it when things go the way you wanted them to go.
Pictured here is Scott shooting video with Pulldown for an upcoming comp video that is already in the works. Stay Tuned!
G

TDB

2010-02-10T21:05:00.001-04:00

Finals are set and they are good!!! Can't wait to have people send them. Total joy!
Quals go up Friday all day/night... Gym will be closed for that day. I talked to Todd aka Pulldown and he will be there to shoot video.
G

Ground Zero Valentine's Massacre/Tour de Bloc

2010-02-08T23:50:00.002-04:00

Setting starts tomorrow for Ground Zero's upcoming Tour de Bloc comp this Saturday. It should be a big show. Lots of problems to try that day only and I hear finals will be HOT! Registration for all categories is from 9-9:45am Sat. morning at GZ. I heard Pulldown might show up to film the event. BOLO will definetely be there too.
Be there!
G

The Hunted (v8) @ Grover, NS

2010-01-13T11:59:00.006-04:00

It's a long hike but this problem is worth it. Found on the edge of Grover's peninsula is the problem The Hunted. We did this line roughly 6 years ago. Crux at the bottom matching on the arete then slightly overhanging to the top. This video is the first ascent shot by Brian Garrison (note: done during hunting season).
G

VIP (v12) @ The Honey Tree, NS

2010-01-06T19:21:00.003-04:00

Here's another oldie. Deep in the woods of w.penn is the honey tree home of The Honey Tree (v8) and the unrepeated VIP (v12) done by Nick Sagar quite a few years ago. Video is of me on an attempt.
G

old footage - Overdrive (v10) @ LOC

2010-01-06T11:08:00.003-04:00

I have some old footage that I will post here from time to time. This one is not very old maybe 3 years? Me repeating Overdrive at LOC on a cold Sunday after a tour de bloc comp. The first ascent was done over 10 years ago, time flies! Still only half a dozen repeats since...

Ice Box Session 2010!

2010-01-04T23:40:00.003-04:00

My resolution for this year is to climb more. Tonight Sean and I got a good session in the famous ice box in Lake Echo. Temps were decent and we have a good circuit of projects on the go. More ice box sessions to come I'm sure. Psyched.
G

Happy holidays!

2009-12-22T18:38:00.003-04:00

Less than 5 months before I graduate.
Looking forward to climbing a bit over the holidays.

GZ League night iphone vid

2009-12-01T23:25:00.002-04:00

Ben Smith throwing himself at the "brown problem on the 45" during Ground Zero's League Night on Nov.30, 2009. Note: after sending the problem he then proceeded to drive with his bro to Pawtuckaway, NH(leaving at 10pm for a 10hr drive!).

Ground Zero has the largest BOLO Volumes inventory of any gym in the world! Check them out! So fun!

G

iPhone video - Skills Inventory v8 at LOC

2009-11-24T12:17:00.003-04:00

Here's Ben Blakney doing the 2nd ascent of Skills Inventory v8 at LOC.

iPhone video Take 1 - Back on Track @ LOC

2009-11-14T18:22:00.008-04:00

Went climbing outside (it had been about 2 months) with a small crew around LOC. It was fun!!
When will I go back out? Who knows... School work continues for a few more weeks then winter break. Can't wait. Here's a quick clip of Nate's first go on Back on Track on the Scoop boulder.
G

Finish line in Central Park

2009-10-31T13:07:00.004-04:00

Tomorrow is the big marathon day. Here is the finish line I will be running towards.
G

no strike!

2009-10-20T09:53:00.003-04:00

Yes they avoided a strike. That means that all the work we put off for later this week during strike break has to be done pronto! Projects, assignments, tests. So that means still no climbing. I might be able to visit the prestigious Ice Box bouldering facility this week so that is motivating. Grades? They use new age grades there which is why they scare most climbers away.
Running is still happening despite last week's iliotibial band injury. I've come up with a plan to run the marathon (knock on wood) with my training program. I am now running with a pace of 6.5min per km which is slower but causes less stress on my right knee. I am also taking short strides to reduce the friction between the band and my knee. I have 13 days left before the marathon and I read that they have medical staff every few miles along the course so I am good to go.

Oh and I am still happier being in school than working in the snow like 2 years ago. Snow is coming soon I can feel it. Bouldering season might be short this fall.

G

thanksgiving, college strike, and running

2009-10-15T16:36:00.003-04:00

Fiona about to go on her first ATV ride. (and my dad talking about trails, maybe?)

Last weekend we went to a cottage for Thanksgiving and things were relax. Finally a break from school life. Things there have been super busy with tests, projects, and assignments. BUT now the NSCC teachers are going to go on strike this Tuesday (Oct.20). No more classes and negociations don't look too good up to now. We are going to continue with projects on our own but no more classes for who knows how long. I am planning on finally going climbing outside. Even though I haven't had time to climb in the last 2 months I still read online what is going on in NB and NS and it's sort of sad how much time people spend worrying and arguing. Next week I think I will go out climbing alone and find some new boulders like old times.
On the marathon preparations I had an incident yesterday on my run. I had to stop at 12km because of a sharp pain on the outside of my knee. I'm now stretching in goal of being able to run without the same pain. Oh and my plane ticket is non-refundable...
G

NYC marathon training

2009-09-16T21:13:00.003-04:00

Life has returned to the busy schedule of college life. One more year then it's all over. Fiona and I will get married next August then relocate to Calgary for work. This year I have a full course load leaving less time for climbing and other stuff. November 1st I will be in NYC for my first time and will run the marathon. That is 26 miles or 42.5km. I estimate it will take me between 4 and 4.5 hours. For this marathon I am also raising donations for the wine for water organization. If you would like to sponsor me click here or email me at glosier at gmail dot com.
For training I have been increasing 5km each run and commuting to class by BMX. I would like to emphasize that I am not a runner and the last time I trained for running was four years ago for the Rome marathon where I ran 8 times leading up to the event!

G

New sport routes

2009-09-10T22:40:00.002-04:00

Bolted 4 new short sport routes at Columbus wall today. I did all 4 and they range from 5.10 up to 5.12, I think! Fun climbing on cool holds unique for our granite. Headed to New Brunswick this weekend for a family reunion. I have to run more, only 7 weeks before NYC and I've only run 4km!!
G

Columbus wall bolting

2009-09-07T22:10:00.004-04:00

Today I had planned on bolting a hard project at Columbus wall. When I got to the top I took a second look at what is called the "headpointing wall". It is short. About 25-30' at the center. There are 3 lines on the far right shorter side that were soloed 10 yrs ago and are listed in the guidebook. I started eyeing some face climbs in the middle of the wall. At first I debated on bolting this wall but after climbing the lines I was very happy I decided to go for it. I bolted one line (3 bolts) that I guessed would be around 5.10 but once I redpointed it felt more like 5.11+. I almost finished bolting another line to the right but halfway done I noticed my drill bit had melted!! Done! I'll have to go back with a new bit and more bolts. There should be a good stack of sport lines on this short wall when I'm done which is rare for around Halifax. I think new climbers will enjoy this wall.
G

Bully Wall - part trois

2009-08-29T14:15:00.004-04:00

Dave (Lion's Head) Voltan was in town for a few days and I easily convinced him to climb out at Bully wall Saturday. While driving there it was raining and it didn't look to good for climbing. Once we were under Bully wall though the hard projects were dry so we quickly warmed up and jumped on the projs. We made more progress and then chalked a direct start under the main line. The direct start on its own is double digit. Dave was impressed with the wall and kept raving about Lion's Head sport climbing in ON. Time to make some fall plans maybe?
G

Shown here Dave working the direct start on Bully wall. Hard!

Bully wall - part deux

2009-08-22T19:49:00.005-04:00

Stamp on the v7 warm-up

Today Stamp, Scooter, and I went out to Bully wall for some climbing before hurricane Bill arrived. We warmed up a bit and did a new low ball traverse that was quite burly for a warm-up (v7/8). We then moved on to the Bully wall project. That thing is intimidating and everyone in the end made some progress. We made some great progress on the arete project on the right side of Bully wall which is going to be really cool.

Scott watching the waves swarming in below Bully wall.

Bully Wall (in Nova Scotia!)

2009-08-09T21:07:00.004-04:00

Today I did some work at the BOLO shop. It took me longer than expected and it was 5pm by the time I left and wasn't sure if I should drive out to Bully wall. But I did go and climbed about 2 hours by myself. That seems to be my trend this summer. Easier to plan and honestly less hassle. And I don't mind having some alone time to listen to music, relax and ponder by the ocean. Back at the Bully wall the gem project that will climb straight out the steepness is super duper good. Quality. The crux is going to be at the end. The start is maybe v6. So I climbed as high as I could without a spotter then just figured out what could be the sequence up higher. This thing is going to be incredible once it goes. It has me psyched. Aside from this steep cave there are other fun boulder problems. Some are steep with holds and remind me a bit of the gymnasium at Hueco Tanks. Really fun.

photo: start of gem project

Bolting

2009-08-08T19:42:00.002-04:00

Today I rebolted a route called "Enervator" 5.12b at Main face in Musquodoboit Harbour. The old bolts were put in over 15 yrs ago and were quite rusted. I also rapped down on a steep sharp arete that could be a nice line. I was all alone at the cliff today and it was beautiful. I went for a swim and there were few bugs. I didn't climb today but re-bolting this thing gave me a little workout.
G

Boulderfest

2009-08-02T20:37:00.002-04:00

Got back today from Boulderfest. It was super hot on the island and it actually made it hard to climb. Many people opted to climb Saturday evening instead of the afternoon. 74 people came out for the event with the majority from Halifax and the others from NB, ON, Maine, and New Zealand. I set a personal goal to attempt 100 points climbing only v7s and harder. With the intense heat I knew this would even be harder. Since I was helping with registration I only got on the island at 3:30pm. After 62 points I needed to start taping my fingers. Once I reached 84 points it was 7pm and I was dehydrated. This year the diner was great. CNS and Todd organized pasta, salad, bread and more which was a break from the usual hamburger barbecue. Temps were starting to drop and many people began heading back out for a night session. I went out to see if I could score the missing 16 points to reach my goal of 100 but at 11:30pm I called it quits with a final score of 99! I was still content with my performance seeing how hot it was. Sean and GZ had some fireworks later that night and the campfire was a must. Sunday I just chilled and helped Todd with Pulldown Productions do some shooting for his next film. Always good times when it's sunny on Dover!
Here is what my final scorecard looked like (in order):
- Behave v7 (1st go warmup)
- No dents v8 (2nd go)
- Grippe d'homme v7 (1st go)
- Grippe d'homme sit down v8 (1st go)
- White Lobster v8 (2nd go)
- Smokey and da bandit v8 (2nd go)
- Blacksmith v9 (1st go)
- Third whale v7 (1st go)
- I heel good v7 (1st go)
- White trash v8 (1st go)
- Exciter v7 (1st go)
- Decepticon v7 (1st, go night session)
- Brendan's moped v8 (night session)
TL 99 points

word!

G

Another Musquodoboit boulder testpiece

2009-07-28T21:30:00.002-04:00

Last Sunday Rich showed me this boulder he found a few years back near the road for Columbus wall. It is 50' from the main road and has 2-3 nice lines on it. I went back today and sent one of them calling it Snap-on v8. It's the nicest looking line starting with a sit and climbing the centreline. It was quite frustrating while working on this and other lines cause holds kept snappping off. That is the problem so often here around Halifax. When working on harder lines granite edges are very fragile and most of them break off with ease.

Boulderfest 2009, August 1-2

2009-07-22T15:37:00.003-04:00

Bfest is coming up soon and I'm crossing my fingers the weather will cooperate. Dover Island is one of the best spots to climb I have ever been to. Tickets are still available for purchase at Ground Zero, Rock Court, Trail Shop, MEC, and through CNS's website. The organizers are planning on having a friendly comp for people who are interested. For the advance category it looks like it might be v7 and over where a v7 is worth 7 points, a v8 8 points, and so on. The total amount of points if you sent all v7s and harder on Dover would be 187. My goal is to reach at least 100pts. Here is my ticklist for bfest:
Out of gas 7 pts
Behave 7 pts
Grippe d'homme 7 pts
I heel good 7 pts
3rd whale 7 pts
Decepticon 7 pts
Exciter 7 pts
White trash 8 pts
Grippe d'homme SDS 8 pts
No dents 8 pts
Smokey and da bandit 8 pts
The great white lobster 8 pts
Brendan's moped 8 pts
Blacksmith 9 pts

total 106 pts

Other v7 and harder not on immediate ticklist:
Acrobat 7 pts
Bloody arete 8 pts
Man of action 9 pts
Shadow in motion 9 pts
Community service 9 pts
Pitbull 9 pts
Stone slinger 10 pts
Horizontal matter 10 pts
Exciter SDS 10 pts

see you there!!

Ghislain

note photo: Me on One Scoop v8 now gone somewhere in the ocean from a winter storm! You will be missed One Scoop! RIP.

BOLO and LOC projects

2009-07-19T23:04:00.003-04:00

My buddy John Bowles drove down this weekend to climb and finish off some work with BOLO. With this rainy weather we did more work than climbing but today was good for climbing. We manage to climb the stand (v7) to the foundation project at Polly's Cove and an easier sit down to the left which is around v8. Photos of new BOLO shapes to come soon!
G

Engaged

2009-07-08T23:34:00.003-04:00

Rockies are awesome! Fiona and I got engaged on this trip! Acephale blew my mind. Can't wait to go back next year. Good to see old friends too.

G

June update 1

2009-06-17T21:39:00.003-04:00

I'm still shaping new volumes. Here's a big pinch I just finished this week that I didn't have time to finish for Nationals. I started working on a new series (not pinches) which I think will be popular. Went to Dover last Saturday with some new climbers and the weather was prime. Dover is so fun. So chill.
Next week I am flying out to Calgary to visit Fiona for a week. I am so psyched. We are going to go camping and hiking in the rockies and planning on getting one climbing day in. The last bouldering world cup was held last weekend in Netherlands. Take a look at their website they recorded the event.

GL

Planet of the Apes, Digby Neck - Nova Scotia

2009-05-23T21:10:00.005-04:00

Today I finally checked out the Planet of the Apes in Sandy Cove located on the Digby Neck. Derick and Sarah gave me a tour of the condensed area of basalt boulders. It was cool to see some new boulders and especially of basalt. The boulders were of good size and there was some steep lines on decent holds. The majority of the lines hover in the v3 range. The hardest stuff I climbed today was some v7 and v8 first ascent. If you want to experience something new you should drive out to the planet of apes.
Ghislain on the FA of "Stick with your guns" v7

Bouldering Nationals 2009

2009-05-19T16:35:00.004-04:00

Back home after a long drive from Montreal for Allez-Up's Bouldering Nationals. Had a blast with everyone there. Bolo volumes were present during finals (see pyramid in photo). Check out tour de bloc's website for media and results. Big up to Men's Open champion John Bowles for representing the east coast!!!

Eva Pepin-Helie on Final #4, Women's OPEN Champion, photo: Aidas Rygelis

Bolo and ghosts?

2009-05-12T00:29:00.003-04:00

I have been doing a ton of work on Bolo volumes. After class or work I drive out to the shop in West Dover and begin fiberglassing, cutting, grinding, sanding, and more. Volumes take an enormous amout of work and anybody who produces them I have their respect. So lately I have been putting in long hours in the evenings and every so often I think I see something move in the corner of my eye. Was it my imagination? Me buzzing from the fumes? Or was it ghosts? I've heard stories of ghosts in that neighborhood from locals. Maybe our volumes will have special powers!!

Made the last shape for nationals tonight. Getting ready to drive out to Montreal.

GL

Canadian Bouldering Nationals - Montreal May 16-17 - LIVE FEED!

2009-05-09T16:02:00.002-04:00

This year's Canadian Bouldering Nationals will be held at Montreal's Allez-Up. They hosted the event in 2005 and it was huge. Now they are hosting plus Drtopo will be present filming the entire weekend broadcasting live on the internet. Qualifiers, Finals, interviews, and lots more. It will be pro. So check in next weekend for the actions. drtopo.com/tdb

A small crew from NB and NS will be driving out and competing. I will be out there too helping with the setting crew and then filming on Sunday.

LOC day

2009-05-09T15:47:00.003-04:00

Keith Swyer on Loose Shoes (v5) at the Eggs in LOC.

We wanted to head out to Dover but it was too last minute and couldn't reach our ride so we hiked in to Memorial and the Eggs in the LOC. Good day of climbing right before the rain arrived.

Skills Inventory (v8) FA, (LOC)

2009-04-26T11:09:00.002-04:00

I've been re-visiting this area in the LOC which Jeremy had told me about. There is this one boulder problem that had been worked on but never sent which picked my curiousity. After seeing it I couldn't believe nobody would of climbed this a long time ago. I figured out the sequence in a session but my skin was worked. Next time out it went down 2nd go. One of the best lines around in my opinion.

bouldering season in Halifax

2009-03-29T17:07:00.002-04:00

Yesterday I went out with some friends at Hephalump and Chebucto Head. Conditions are great right now for bouldering. I am realizing more and more that some of the testpieces around here have extremely cryptic beta! It is unbelievable sometimes. I can try problems that I put up many years ago and it will take me a long time to remember the sequence. Sometimes for problems I should be able to resend in just a few goes. It reminds me of Fontainebleau. Very beta intensive. I think my next book could be on testpiece beta.
photo by Aidas Rygelis. 4 am (v9?) unrepeated at Chebucto Head.

Atlantic Regionals March 2009

2009-03-25T18:14:00.003-04:00

Last Saturday was the Tour de bloc regionals at UNB. I was back on my old turf to set and head-judge the comp. I always enjoy climbing and setting at that gym since that is where I first started climbing and I have some fond memories. In the past we have struggled with attendance but this one was enjoyable for all organizers as around 50 climbers from all over participated. We ran qualifiers for OPEN in the morning and REC & Experienced in the afternoon. Finals went smoothly I thought and I hooked up a live feed which same friends and family enjoyed in the comfort of their home.
The Men's OPEN field was pretty strong and I really didn't know who would take top spots. And in the end local man John Bowles grabbed 1st despite a finger injury.

photos by Ann Butler / top: Krissy Lunney on finals #3, bottom: Florian Muth about to send Finals #1

Injuries...

2009-03-02T22:08:00.003-04:00

Some people asked me recently if I've ever had serious climbing injuries and I replied no. I mean sometimes I got the occasional finger pulley "tweak" but nothing serious. Well, except that time in Quebec when a crimp snapped off and my leg crashed on a sharp stump. It caused a hematoma in my thigh. I think I pulled one tendon in my entire climbing life despite my lack of warm-up practice. Yesterday I was climbing this project at the gym on a 45 when I fell something tweak in my knee. I knew I had done something but I was 2 moves away from sending so I did and jumped off. Dam. How lame. Injury climbing on plastic! It hurt but I could still climb for a bit. When I went to Fiona's I asked her dad and he told me it probably wasn't a ligament but more the cartilege in my knee. It happens to football players. So that is good news. It's super stiff in the morning but once I get going it gets better. I'll be ok in a week or so. I'm just going to break from climbing for that time. I'm busy with school anyway so that's good. There's 2-1/2 wks left before I drive up to NB to set the Tour de Bloc regionals at UNB. I always like going there as that's where climbing all started for me. The club has always been a great spot to climb and train. People are pysched and it's hella cheap to climb there. During my last trip to Fred'ton I bought a new impact drill that I will be happy to try out. The trip was so snowy. It fell over 40cm in 24hrs (see photo). Yes so the regionals should be a good time. We're introducing a "team" option so people can form a team and compete with other teams to see who can climb most problems. Stay tuned...
zig

Tour de Bloc Halifax - Jan. 31, 2009

2009-02-02T21:11:00.003-04:00

Last Saturday was the last TDB local in the maritimes. We had a good crew come out and test themselves on 30 blocs. Travis Van Ryn from Ontario and Justin Jones from Manitoba made the trip for the comp as did the New Brunswick crew. The open field saw steep competition and in the end local boy Ben Smith grabbed 1st place. Holly Reid won the title in women's open. I look forward in setting regionals in Fredericton, NB in March as we are expecting a good turnout.
John Bowles flashing bloc #2 in open finals. photo: Aidas Rygelis

TV5

2009-01-28T10:36:00.003-04:00

Watch a preview clip

TV5 shot an episode on bouldering on Dover Island last September. All in french.

Bridgetown

2009-01-28T10:16:00.002-04:00

2 weeks ago I was setting with Derick Smith in Annapolis Royal for the first youth comp in the valley and we talked about access for Bridgetown's boulders. It turns out that the boulders that were on private property might see some climbers again in 2009. Plus there's the new potential in Sandy Cove for bouldering that looks and sounds like a blast. I will be checking it out early spring. This week Chris Eager sent me a video he shot and edited from some old Bridgetown footage. Check it out!
http://vimeo.com/2987766?pg=transcoded_embed&sec=2987766

Fiera finals pics

2008-06-17T07:56:00.003-04:00

Sean sealing the deal by completing bloc #4.

Sean sending bloc #3 on his last go (without any rest!)

Sean McColl 3rd in Fiera di Primiero!!!

2008-06-15T15:40:00.003-04:00

Sean McColl during semi finals in Fiera di Primiero.

Yes! Last night Sean finished 3rd at the bouldering world cup in Fiera di Primiero. Finals were so exciting and Sean gave an impressive performance in front of a large audience. I believe Sean is the first canadian to ever podium in a bouldering world cup. Again, Sean was crushing in finals!! We celebrated very late and had a blast in Fiera. I have a ton of photos from finals that I will sort through later and will post on Sean's facebook trip page. Check it out!

I'm back in France now. I just finished an 11hr drive from Italy. I was surprised to discover that I have already driven over 5000km in less than 3 weeks!!
Fontainebleau tomorrow and Canada on Tuesday. The trip is almost over...

Fiera di Primiero WC

2008-06-14T03:37:00.003-04:00

Jj Mah making great progress on Qualifier 3.

Qualifiers are now done in Fiera. It rained for most of the day. Fortunately the tents above the walls were just big enough to keep everything dry. Like usual the blocs were sick hard and it always felt like you were climbing poorly! Im here with fellow canadians which is more fun. Sean McColl advanced to semis (14th), Jj Mah (50th), Ghislain Losier (54th), and Marshal German (58th). More to come after semis and finals today!

Team Canada in Vail, CO

2008-06-09T13:50:00.003-04:00

Team Canada at last weekend's bouldering world cup event in Vail, CO (USA).

Next up is Fiera di Primiero in Italy June 13-14. A few of the canadian men will be there to represent!

sunshine in Bleau

2008-06-08T19:04:00.003-04:00

A great Fontainebleau photo (©2008 Guérin).

This is taken from Jo Montchausse's website. Jo is one of the authors for the guidebook to Fontainebleau and he also makes bouldering gear. (http://i-bbz.com/accueil_a.html)

Fontainebleau

2008-06-06T15:31:00.003-04:00

A new 7b traverse in Font. at the Hautes Plaines du Franchard area.

I'm now in Fontainebleau for a few days to boulder before heading south to Italy for the last leg of my trip. I had about an hour of climbing yesterday before it started pouring. This morning it was still raining but by midday I was out warming out at Roches aux sabots, Isatis then went back to this new area with mostly traverses. Really good lines and fun to climb. Maybe the style is reminescent of Halifax bouldering. I had a good day climbing. I flashed this 7b that is the intro to a new traverse testpiece put up this winter that is rated 8b+/8c!! Like v14 or something. Nuts! I should be able to climb the next 4 days as the weather is looking promising (knock on wood).
On a side note "team canada" is competing at the bouldering world cup in Vail, Colorado today. I'm looking forward to the results.

Burgundy

2008-06-03T12:11:00.003-04:00

Tonight we have a "premier cru" from Fixin (Burgundy).

This morning I left rainy Bellinzona and drove 5hrs back north to Beaune, France. First off Beaune is Burgundy's wine capital and is situated just south of Dijon and north from Lyon. Things are looking up for me. I'm resting in a small hotel overlooking the famous vinards and enjoying some wine. I'm also looking forward sleeping in a bed and getting some rest to prepare me for Fontainebleau for the coming week. After that I will head back south to compete at the World Cup in Fiera di Primiero. If the weather can cooperate for the next week I will be psyched again to climb and compete. bonne journee! GL

rain

2008-06-02T15:12:00.003-04:00

I'm sitting in my car in a campground in Bellinzona, Switz. And it's raining. Yesterday I drove from Grindelwald to Magic Woods. After running in to check out the boulders I was very disappointed. Maybe I was just expecting too much from all the hype. So this morning I left (that's right) Woods and drove down to Bellinzona to climb at Cresciano and Chironico. The later I had not seen and got some enjoyment from that. But now it's raining and I'm debating what to do. There's no way I'm staying here for 10 days before Fiera. Maybe I will drive back up to Fontainebleau and climb there before the next WC?? 7 hour drive though! Anyway, I'm kind of stressing from all the disappointment I've had in the last few days plus the lack of good food and sleep. GL

Grindelwald WC finals

2008-05-31T17:26:00.004-04:00

Kilian Fischhuber finishing finals #1.

The Grindelwald WC is over and tomorrow morning I'm headed to the famous Magic Woods in Averstal, Switz. I can't wait to see all the problems. The semis and finals were impressive to watch. The routesetters really know how to produce a real show for the audience. There was probably around 500 people watching the finals. I'm already looking forward to the Fiera WC in 2 weeks.

Grindelwald World Cup

2008-05-31T05:51:00.003-04:00

Akito Matsushima from Japan on problem #3.

I'm in Grindelwald, Switz. and yesterday I competed in my first bouldering world cup. It was great but at the same time nerve wrecking! I was so nervous. The first 3 problems I got to the last move but couldn't top. The last 2 were much harder. But I managed to get all 5 bonus holds which put me in 51th place (out of 65). I learned quite a bit and I am looking forward in seeing the semis and finals later today.
I had a rough start to my trip as my luggage didn't arrive with me which meant I had to drive back to the airport (4:30am from Font) on Thursday to pick them up at the 6am flight from Montreal then turn back and drive 7hrs to Grindelwald. I still got to visit my friend Jo in Font. and eat lots of pain au chocolat (10!). GL

Dover Island

2008-05-25T20:02:00.003-04:00

Dave Voltan on Exciter.

Today a group of us made a day trip to Dover Island. The weather was great. My buddy Dave Voltan from Toronto was in town and he came out for the day. He had never climbed here so he was in for a real treat. Quite a few problems have been "removed" by the ocean during storms this past winter. It's amazing to think what the ocean is capable of!

Final preparations...

2008-05-24T10:00:00.000-04:00

3 more days before I leave for europe. It has been 3 years since I was over the big pond. There has been a lot of planning to realize this trip and I can't even believe that it's going to actually happen. I fly into Paris Wed. morning then I will drive to Grindelwald, Switz. for Friday's world cup event. I am a little nervous as this is my first time competing in such an event. Switz. is one of my favorite countries I have ever visited so I am looking forward spending time there. I plan on bouldering in Magic woods between the Grindelwald and the Fiera di Primiero WC in Italy. A bigger team Canada will be present at the Primiero WC which will be great. Anyway, I will try to update this blog through out my trip via cell phone and laptop.
zig