Minute Papillon (v9-10?) @ Cheater's Head (2003)

Here is an obscure testpiece found at Cheater's Head across from Terence Bay. On a slightly overhanging wall close to the ocean are two problems. The left is an amazing ballsy v7 named Rogue Wave and to the right is a heinous crimp problem named Minute Papillon. On the last move of Rogue you make a long move where blowing it would result diving in the ocean! Here Chris Eager works on Minute Papillon (possibly still unrepeated, FA by GL)

Le Safari @ LOC ~ 1999

I have some older photos (pre-digital) of bouldering in Halifax that I intend on posting here over the next few months. Enjoy! G

Shown here is Jeff Lockyer before the first ascent of Le Safari on the Jungle boulder in LOC. This photo was taken during the first session on it sometime in 1999 I believe. Doing first ascents in Halifax depends many times on having the vision of what is possible or might be possible. This was a good example. Observe only two scrubed holds on the lip...

Moving to townhouse

Friday we move in to our townhouse. We are so psyched! Went camping last weekend in Radium. At kicking horse resort they had a small climbing wall that I had to jump on. If only they had these when I was 6!

Wild West

Fiona and I have been living in Calgary for a month now. Things are good. Weather has been pretty aweful. I've climbed a few times outside and plan on visiting Prairie quite a bit this summer.

Nationals

I'm getting psyched to fly to Toronto this Wednesday to set with a great crew for Nationals. I'm looking forward in catching up with some friends as Fiona and I will be moving to Calgary in less than a month. G

School's out! Back to climbing!

I'm now done my college program! So happy to be done. I'm heading down to NH to visit some friends and do some bouldering in Pawtuckaway. Can't wait to get outside.
G

Old School

Back in the day, I mean like 10 years ago, the crew finding new boulder problems in Halifax was very small. I guess the number of people who go out NOW and search for new boulders is probably still small. What I'm trying to get at is that even though I wrote a guidebook for Halifax bouldering there are quality boulder problems that were not included in the book. Some would argue that everything should be in a guidebook but I have my reasons for not doing so. Some of these gems are reached by long heinous hikes and all of that for maybe only one boulder and one quality line. But again some of these hidden blocs are equal to the best lines around Hfx. Pictured above is Chris Eager, an old school player, that was part of the gem hunting crew. The boulder problem is called Delivery Boy (v8) found in Musquodoboit Harbour. So good. Maybe some day someone will go there and repeat it...
G