Another Musquodoboit boulder testpiece

Last Sunday Rich showed me this boulder he found a few years back near the road for Columbus wall. It is 50' from the main road and has 2-3 nice lines on it. I went back today and sent one of them calling it Snap-on v8. It's the nicest looking line starting with a sit and climbing the centreline. It was quite frustrating while working on this and other lines cause holds kept snappping off. That is the problem so often here around Halifax. When working on harder lines granite edges are very fragile and most of them break off with ease.

Boulderfest 2009, August 1-2

Bfest is coming up soon and I'm crossing my fingers the weather will cooperate. Dover Island is one of the best spots to climb I have ever been to. Tickets are still available for purchase at Ground Zero, Rock Court, Trail Shop, MEC, and through CNS's website. The organizers are planning on having a friendly comp for people who are interested. For the advance category it looks like it might be v7 and over where a v7 is worth 7 points, a v8 8 points, and so on. The total amount of points if you sent all v7s and harder on Dover would be 187. My goal is to reach at least 100pts. Here is my ticklist for bfest:
Out of gas 7 pts
Behave 7 pts
Grippe d'homme 7 pts
I heel good 7 pts
3rd whale 7 pts
Decepticon 7 pts
Exciter 7 pts
White trash 8 pts
Grippe d'homme SDS 8 pts
No dents 8 pts
Smokey and da bandit 8 pts
The great white lobster 8 pts
Brendan's moped 8 pts
Blacksmith 9 pts

total 106 pts


Other v7 and harder not on immediate ticklist:
Acrobat 7 pts
Bloody arete 8 pts
Man of action 9 pts
Shadow in motion 9 pts
Community service 9 pts
Pitbull 9 pts
Stone slinger 10 pts
Horizontal matter 10 pts
Exciter SDS 10 pts


see you there!!

Ghislain

note photo: Me on One Scoop v8 now gone somewhere in the ocean from a winter storm! You will be missed One Scoop! RIP.

BOLO and LOC projects

My buddy John Bowles drove down this weekend to climb and finish off some work with BOLO. With this rainy weather we did more work than climbing but today was good for climbing. We manage to climb the stand (v7) to the foundation project at Polly's Cove and an easier sit down to the left which is around v8. Photos of new BOLO shapes to come soon!
G

Engaged

Rockies are awesome! Fiona and I got engaged on this trip! Acephale blew my mind. Can't wait to go back next year. Good to see old friends too.

G

June update 1

I'm still shaping new volumes. Here's a big pinch I just finished this week that I didn't have time to finish for Nationals. I started working on a new series (not pinches) which I think will be popular. Went to Dover last Saturday with some new climbers and the weather was prime. Dover is so fun. So chill.
Next week I am flying out to Calgary to visit Fiona for a week. I am so psyched. We are going to go camping and hiking in the rockies and planning on getting one climbing day in. The last bouldering world cup was held last weekend in Netherlands. Take a look at their website they recorded the event.

GL

Planet of the Apes, Digby Neck - Nova Scotia

Today I finally checked out the Planet of the Apes in Sandy Cove located on the Digby Neck. Derick and Sarah gave me a tour of the condensed area of basalt boulders. It was cool to see some new boulders and especially of basalt. The boulders were of good size and there was some steep lines on decent holds. The majority of the lines hover in the v3 range. The hardest stuff I climbed today was some v7 and v8 first ascent. If you want to experience something new you should drive out to the planet of apes.
Ghislain on the FA of "Stick with your guns" v7

Bouldering Nationals 2009

Back home after a long drive from Montreal for Allez-Up's Bouldering Nationals. Had a blast with everyone there. Bolo volumes were present during finals (see pyramid in photo). Check out tour de bloc's website for media and results. Big up to Men's Open champion John Bowles for representing the east coast!!!

Eva Pepin-Helie on Final #4, Women's OPEN Champion, photo: Aidas Rygelis