Sunday, March 17, 2013

NSB back in 2002...

Here's an old web archive from 2002 on bouldering activity in Halifax...



2002/11/20 Dover Island, NS




















photo: zigtv
Ben Blakney on Dover Island's classic Exciter.


2002/11/19 Chebucto Head and Duncan's Cove, NS
At Chebucto Head above Andy's area, a dangerous short bulge has been climbed and named The big fellar (v6R). Situated above a rolling slab the problem starts in a small trench on a horizontal then crimps up the bulge to a delicate top out. At Duncan's cove on the Jazzberry Ram wall, the straight up from the horizontal originally dubbed Acid Jazz goes at around v6.


2002/11/16 Terence Bay, NS










 photo:zigtv
Nick wearing his hunter's orange on Gun Control. Right photo: crux hold
On Friday, Nick Sagar completed Gun Control (v11/12) one of the few remaining projects at the woods area. Previously known as the "sloper project" this technical line no doubt ranks as one of Halifax's hardest.


2002/11/14 Halifax, NS
Check out the postcards on DrTopo for November 10, 11, 12, and 13. It's the account of DrTopo's trip to Halifax along with some photos. The November 13th's postcard showcases Darlene Pidgeon repeating One Scoop located on Dover Island. A short video is still to come!


2002/11/08 Niagara Glen, ON
As reported on 8a, Simon Villeneuve climbed a FA at the Glen named The Crucifix (v11). Located to the left of The Phoenix which Villeneuve repeated a while back and was recently done by Adam Zarzycki.


2002/11/08 Halifax, NS
Tim Doyle and Darlene Pidgeon visited Halifax a few weeks ago and again this week along with Alex Guerrits of DrTopo. They were psyched about the areas they saw. Stay tuned for a little something on their trip on DrTopo.com. Here's a few new problems in the last month: At Tombstone (Blind Bay) on the big boulder beside Tombstone/Buried alive, there is Au bouleau (v7), a R to L traverse finishing up the middle of the boulder. Sit-starting on the far left is The surgeon general (v10) which finishes on the same finish as on Au bouleau. On the Satellite at LOC, Bring the pain (v8), an old slab-mantle project to the right of Crystal light. A long link-up at Chebucto Head has been done starting by the water down from Tall guy, traversing the faces R to L finally finishing on Tsunami. On Dover, the roof project between White trash and Orantugan has been completed and named Horizontal matter (v9ish). This fall Ground Zero, Beyond Gravity, and DAL Plex are each running competion series with monthly comps. Have a look on the events page for more info. Finally Todd Foster's bouldering video Eastern Tide has made the finalists list at the Banff Mountain Festival of Films. The short version of 22min showcases local climbers at LOC, Dover island, and Terence Bay and is one of only 15 climbing videos at the festival.


2002/11/08 Val-David, QC
On a recent visit Nick Sagar climbed Cowboy from the sit-start which would bring it to around v11 seeing the higher start was thought to be v10/11.



2002/09/27 LOC














































 photos: Nick Sagar
Kleos at Area 51 in LOC.


2002/09/04 Halifax, NS
























photo: Nick Sagar
Heather Reynolds-Sagar on her ascent of Resurrection
This morning Heather Reynolds-Sagar climbed Resurrection (v10) at LOC. That makes her one of the few (2 or 3) canadian women to have climbed the grade. 


2002/09/02 Halifax, NS
Today Nick Sagar completed the sit down start to Show me your guts at Area 51. Kleos (v11) is one of  the hardest testpiece in Halifax right behind The Grind at Duck Head.
 


2002/08/15 Salt Lake City, UT
Canadian Nels Rosaasen finished in a strong 2nd place at the recent PCA comp held at the Front in Salt Lake City.


2002/08/15 Squamish, BC
Pat Chung repeated Dan Gable's prow problem Encore Une Fois (v11).  Matt Lucas' highball slab Desire (30 feet high!) has become something of a classic, and has seen several ascents. Tim Doyle did the low start to Krishna which is 
probably in the V10 or V11 range.
news - by Trent Hoover
Dr.Topo reports that 16 yr old Harry ? repeated The Proposal. Have a look at their photo sequence.


2002/08/15 Halifax, NS
In the last few months a few new problems have gone up at various areas. At Duck head cove, Todd Foster added Shake n' bake (v6) on the cave section and uses a shaky yet solid block for both hands and a heel hook all at once. The scary tall face around the left arete from Skin graph has been completed just recently and named Comfort zone (v8/9) and awaits a repeat. On Dover island Sagar added an unnamed roof problem between Aaron Eden's Tourist attraction and Orangutan and checks in the v7-8 range. Aaron Eden visiting during Boulder Fest did an impressing flash 2nd ascent of Decepticon (v7) found just left of the classic v3 John Doe. Another old LOC project got completed a few weeks ago this time on the Scoop boulder. The short arete right of When stars attack produced Back on track (v7/8). On the repeat front here goes: Ben Blakney got Z-hall and X-rated the later also done by Foster and Jim H. Tyler Sherman made a few runs up the dicey Terminal velocity during one of the Tuesday night bouldering series. Heather Sagar repeated Le visage coupé (v7) at the new Chebucto's foot area.


2002/07/17 Chebucto Head, NS
Nick completed the "Tommy's bulge" project at Chebucto calling it Young One. Tommy Caldwell had begun working the awkward bulge during his visit last fall.  It is situated below the parking and to the right of Andy's area and falls in the v10 range.


2002/07/12 Duck Head, NS
Nick Sagar has pushed the limit in Halifax once again with The Grind
 (v11) at Duck Head Cove. Nick worked on the line for several days before toping out the steep line.





















Nick on The Grind (v11) at Duck Head Cove. photo: zigtv


2002/06/10 Squamish, BC
Darlene Pidgeon continues to rip up the forest - after returning from Fontainebleau, she seems even stronger.  In the last few weeks, she has completed Sesame Street and Wormworld Cave.  Wormworld Cave is an especially notable ascent, as it is notably reachy and harder for those under 5'6" or so.  Darlene also made a rapid ascent of Dan Gable's new technical sloper problem Vitamin D (V8).
Tim Doyle finally opened the long-unclimbed problem that comes out of the right side of Israel's Cave in the Talus Area, in Squamish. Siddharta is unusual for Squamish, in that it uses a series of thin basalt crimps up a very overhanging face.  Tim understandably refrained from grading the problem, but the line of suitors for this problem was impressive, and
included several of Canada's strongest boulderers.  This problem will certainly rank as one of Canada's most difficult.
Hope, one hour east of Vancouver, is steadily becoming a new bouldering destination for western Canada.  A posse of strong locals (including Marc Lebrevre, Nate Woods, and Quinn Chevalier) have unearthed hundreds on stellar problems on fine-grained granite.  Nate Woods' testpieces include the stellar highball Blade of Lightning (V9/10) and the crimpy Pirhanasenfossa (V10/11).  More to come from this group of dedicated boulders...

- news by Trent Hoover


2002/05/17 Niagara Glen, ONT
Sonnie Trotter repeated The Phoenix (v11) at the Glen.


2002/05/17 LOC
Becky Craig climbed Gimme gimme shock treatment at the Joey Ramone area yesterday. Previously given v8 the consensus now seems to be v6.


2002/05/16 Val-David, QCSimon Villeneuve repeated Cowboy (v10/11) before completing the project of the extended start to Belly of a whale. Ultra Belly (v11).


2002/05/13 Chebucto HeadNS
Heather Reynolds-Sagar did Tsunami today after a few days of work. That just 10 months after having a baby!


2002/05/12 TB woods area, Porcupine FortressThere’s a new problem to the left of Jabba the hut called  The Parallax view (v8). Starts on two high very small crimps and climbs straight up the face. PF has seen a little more traffic these days resulting in a few new problems. On the backside of the Bandit boulder there’s now The masked man (v7) and to the right around the corner The quiver (v4).




















Sonnie jumping on Bugs Bunny on Dover island. photo: Simon Sagar
Sonnie Trotter was in town for a visit and also to experience the bouldering he heard so much about. He seemed impressed with the areas and already plans to come back soon. Aside from climbing some classic testpieces, including flash ascents of ResurrectionFear of FlyingZ-Hall, etc, Sonnie established a few new quality desperates. On Dover to the right of One Scoop: Ocean Playground (v10), then “fishmouth project” was done by Sagar then Trotter:Wet Walkie-talkie (v9). At Duck Head Cove in the mini cave area: High Tide (v9). At Terence Bay woods the long attempted “dyno from crimps” below Blood flameHardly Easy (v9) 2nd ascent by Trotter then he added a sit-start problem to the right of the tree and finishes up the arête/face: Strike three (v9). Sonnie also repeated Fynnished (v10).

















Sonnie on his Ocean playground (v10) on Dover island. photo: Simon Sagar


2002/05/10 Terence Bay Ben Blakney completed the cave project at the lake area and was named The Blakney Special (v9) also repeated by Chris Eager.


2002/05/10 LOCThe face project on the Dog House boulder has been completed and named Full House.

Wednesday, January 23, 2013

One day at Dover video (2003)


This video shot by Brian Garrison in 2003 during one day at Dover features FAs and repeats of classics.
Climbers: Ben Blakney (beige pants), Ghislain Losier (brown pants), Rich LaPaix (jeans).
FAs: Une Grippe d'Homme v7, Fear Factor v2
Repeats: One Scoop v8, Exciter v7

I like the video sequence of figuring the beta on the FA of "Une grippe d'homme". That process of unlocking the beta with friends has always been one of my favorite things in climbing.

G

One day at Dover from glosier on Vimeo.

Monday, January 21, 2013

Jones not home, FA in B-town, NS

Here's a video of FA of "Jones not home" in Bridgetown, NS. Shot and edited by Chris Eager.

http://vimeo.com/2987766

G

Elephant on my back V7, FA

Found this video of FA of "Elephant on my back" V7 at Grover. Video by Brian Garrison.

http://vimeo.com/11373441

More old videos coming your way soon!

G

Sunday, January 13, 2013

NSBOULDERING going offline after 15 years...

It's been a while since my last post! Anyways, I started this website Nsbouldering.com back in 1998 to document the bouldering scene around Halifax. I'm no longer in Halifax and not in touch with the current scene therefor that website will go offline in the next month or so. I'm posting below the ticklist that was on the website. G

 Area's Hardest Remember!
Absolutely NO chipping, NO glueing, clean your holds!
 STATS: 56 x V8 33 x V9 21 x V10 16 x V11+ ------------ total : 126!
 First Ascentists… BB - Ben Blakney, BS - Ben Smith, CC – Chris Checuti, CE – Chris Eager, NS - Nick Sagar, GL - Ghislain Losier, ST - Sonnie Trotter, STH – Sean Therien, SC - Sean Cassidy, TD - Tim Doyle, TS – Tyler Sherman TK - Tim Kemple * UR = unrepeated (also unconfirmed) * SDS = sit down start

 NAME AREA FA V8 (56)
Pumped Hammies Herring Cove CC 98?
Crystal Light LOC GL 99
Dynamitus LOC GL 00
Nouveau Itch LOC GL 00
Inbangyang Terence Bay - main NS 00
Un Modele du Mal Terence Bay - main GL 00
Bar Fight Terence Bay - main NS 00
Victoria Arete West Pennant NS 01
Victoria Face West Pennant NS 01
Inukshuk Sandy Point NS 01
Vice Grip Terence Bay - lake GL 01
Buried Alive Blind Bay NS 01
Elephant Collector LOC GL 01
Pogue Mahone LOC TS 01
Chainsaw (v7/8) LOC ST 01
Creepy Crawler LOC GL 01 (UR)
Skin Graft Duck Head GL 02
Flagpole Arete York Redoubt NS 02
Buckle Up Terence Bay - lake CE 02
La Mer à Boire LOC GL 02
Squish Dover Island GL 02 (UR, RIP)
One Scoop Dover Island GL (RIP)02
Back on Track LOC GL 02
Bring the Pain LOC GL 02 (UR)
Au Bouleau Blind Bay GL 02
Full House LOC GL 02 (UR, broke)
Suck it in Chebucto Head ST 02
Wild Life Lake Echo GL 02 (UR)
Bloody Arete Dover Island ST 02
White Trash (v7/8) Dover Island NS 02
Where the sun don't shine Dover Island GL (RIP)03
Acrobat (v7/8) Dover Island GL 03
Trouble in Paradise LOC GL 03
Smokey and the Bandit Dover Island GL 03
No Dents Dover Island GL 03
Une Grippe d’Homme SDS Dover Island GL 03
Brendan’s Moped Dover Island GL 03
The Honey Tree Hundred Acre Wood GL 03
It's a disease LOC GL 04
Grouch Grover GL 04 (UR)
Long Ears Thougthful Spot NS 04
The Great White Lobster Dover Island TK 04
Black Tower LOC GL 04 (UR)
The Hunted Grover GL 04
Bad News for Happy People LOC GL 04 (UR)
Super Dog On Patrol LOC GL 04 (UR)
Le Diamant LOC GL 05 (UR)
Tony Grover GL 05 (UR)
Sea Saw LOC GL 05
The Christening Valley GL 05
Rest Day Kidstone Lake BS (UR) 06
A New Page LOC GL (UR) 06
La Vague de Froid Grover GL 06
L'espion au galot West Pennant GL (UR) 06
The blasting cap Musq. Harbour BS (UR) 08
Skills Inventory LOC GL 09

 V9 (33)
Tsunami Chebucto Head SC 99
Fear of Flying Terence Bay GL 00
Naufrage TBay - main GL 01
Buckteeth Chebucto Head GL (UR) 01
Z-Haul Duck Head Cove NS 02
Alien Workshop TB - Lake BB 02
Comfort Zone Duck Head Cove GL (UR, RIP) 02
Horizontal Matter Dover Island TD 02
Fishmouth Dover Isand GL (RIP) 02
L' Ame en Premier (v9/10) Chebucto Head GL 03
4 AM Chebucto Head GL 03
Shadow in Motion Dover Island GL (UR) 03
Community Service Dover Island NS 03
Pitbull Dover Island NS 03
Vacuum Tube Cheater's Head GL 03
Levitate LOC BB 03
Ziad Grover GL (UR) 04
The Clown Grover GL 04
Dilemma Grover GL 04
Heartbreaker Grover GL (UR) 04
Mr Sanders Thoughtful Spot NS 04
Trail Blazer Grover GL 04
Weakling West Pennant GL (now broke)04
Blacksmith Dover Island GL 04
Access Denied West Pennant NS 04
Double Crossed West Pennant NS 04
Sciences Féminines Grover GL 04
Can't Trust Skinny People SDS LOC GL 04 (UR)
Dynamitus SDS LOC GL 05
Checking it Twice Valley NS 05
Jungle Fever LOC TD 06
Imanust Chebucto Head BS 06
Deeper Understanding West Pennant NS 06
Robotic Mode LOC GL 06 (UR)

 V10 (21)
Dancing to the New Bolero LOC GL 99
Resurrection LOC NS 00
Pushed Terence Bay NS 00
Overdrive LOC GL 00
Cian's Echo Lake Echo GL (UR) 01
Fynnished Chebucto Head NS 01
Ocean Playground Dover Island ST (RIP) 02
Young One Chebucto Head NS 02
High Tide Duck Head Cove ST (RIP) 02
The Surgeon General Tombstone GL 02
Man of Action (9/10) Dover Island GL 03
Exciter SDS Dover Island GL 03
Aftermath LOC BB 03
Minute Papillon Cheater's Head GL (UR) 03
Trespassers Will Thoughtful Spot NS 04
Stone Slinger Dover Island GL 04
Old Soul Thougthful Spot NS 04
The Fine Line Grover NS 04
Ocean Commotion Dover Island GL 06
Transitions (10/11) Grover GL (UR) 07
The Smirley Musquodobit Hbr GL (UR) 08

 "HALIFAX HARD" V11 up (16)
High Maintenance LOC NS 00
 Gun Control TB Woods NS 01
The Long Hard One Chebucto Head NS 02
Kleos LOC NS 02
The Grind Duck Head NS (UR, RIP) 02
Papa Bear West Pennant NS 05
Last Chance W. Pennant NS 05
Phase III W. Pennant NS 06
Phase VIII (SDS) W. Pennant NS 06
Grizzly W. Pennant NS 06
Honey Bear W. Pennant NS (UR) 06
VIP W. Pennant NS (UR) 06
Hit-and-Run W. Pennant GL 06
RTK W. Pennant GL (UR) 07
The Hourglass W. Pennant GL (UR) 08
The longer harder one Chebucto Head BS (UR) 08