Happy holidays!

Less than 5 months before I graduate.
Looking forward to climbing a bit over the holidays.

GZ League night iphone vid

Ben Smith throwing himself at the "brown problem on the 45" during Ground Zero's League Night on Nov.30, 2009. Note: after sending the problem he then proceeded to drive with his bro to Pawtuckaway, NH(leaving at 10pm for a 10hr drive!).

Ground Zero has the largest BOLO Volumes inventory of any gym in the world! Check them out! So fun!

G

iPhone video - Skills Inventory v8 at LOC

Here's Ben Blakney doing the 2nd ascent of Skills Inventory v8 at LOC.

iPhone video Take 1 - Back on Track @ LOC

Went climbing outside (it had been about 2 months) with a small crew around LOC. It was fun!!
When will I go back out? Who knows... School work continues for a few more weeks then winter break. Can't wait. Here's a quick clip of Nate's first go on Back on Track on the Scoop boulder.
G

Finish line in Central Park

Tomorrow is the big marathon day. Here is the finish line I will be running towards.
G

no strike!

Yes they avoided a strike. That means that all the work we put off for later this week during strike break has to be done pronto! Projects, assignments, tests. So that means still no climbing. I might be able to visit the prestigious Ice Box bouldering facility this week so that is motivating. Grades? They use new age grades there which is why they scare most climbers away.
Running is still happening despite last week's iliotibial band injury. I've come up with a plan to run the marathon (knock on wood) with my training program. I am now running with a pace of 6.5min per km which is slower but causes less stress on my right knee. I am also taking short strides to reduce the friction between the band and my knee. I have 13 days left before the marathon and I read that they have medical staff every few miles along the course so I am good to go.

Oh and I am still happier being in school than working in the snow like 2 years ago. Snow is coming soon I can feel it. Bouldering season might be short this fall.

G

thanksgiving, college strike, and running

Fiona about to go on her first ATV ride. (and my dad talking about trails, maybe?)

Last weekend we went to a cottage for Thanksgiving and things were relax. Finally a break from school life. Things there have been super busy with tests, projects, and assignments. BUT now the NSCC teachers are going to go on strike this Tuesday (Oct.20). No more classes and negociations don't look too good up to now. We are going to continue with projects on our own but no more classes for who knows how long. I am planning on finally going climbing outside. Even though I haven't had time to climb in the last 2 months I still read online what is going on in NB and NS and it's sort of sad how much time people spend worrying and arguing. Next week I think I will go out climbing alone and find some new boulders like old times.
On the marathon preparations I had an incident yesterday on my run. I had to stop at 12km because of a sharp pain on the outside of my knee. I'm now stretching in goal of being able to run without the same pain. Oh and my plane ticket is non-refundable...
G

NYC marathon training

Life has returned to the busy schedule of college life. One more year then it's all over. Fiona and I will get married next August then relocate to Calgary for work. This year I have a full course load leaving less time for climbing and other stuff. November 1st I will be in NYC for my first time and will run the marathon. That is 26 miles or 42.5km. I estimate it will take me between 4 and 4.5 hours. For this marathon I am also raising donations for the wine for water organization. If you would like to sponsor me click here or email me at glosier at gmail dot com.
For training I have been increasing 5km each run and commuting to class by BMX. I would like to emphasize that I am not a runner and the last time I trained for running was four years ago for the Rome marathon where I ran 8 times leading up to the event!

G

New sport routes

Bolted 4 new short sport routes at Columbus wall today. I did all 4 and they range from 5.10 up to 5.12, I think! Fun climbing on cool holds unique for our granite. Headed to New Brunswick this weekend for a family reunion. I have to run more, only 7 weeks before NYC and I've only run 4km!!
G

Columbus wall bolting

Today I had planned on bolting a hard project at Columbus wall. When I got to the top I took a second look at what is called the "headpointing wall". It is short. About 25-30' at the center. There are 3 lines on the far right shorter side that were soloed 10 yrs ago and are listed in the guidebook. I started eyeing some face climbs in the middle of the wall. At first I debated on bolting this wall but after climbing the lines I was very happy I decided to go for it. I bolted one line (3 bolts) that I guessed would be around 5.10 but once I redpointed it felt more like 5.11+. I almost finished bolting another line to the right but halfway done I noticed my drill bit had melted!! Done! I'll have to go back with a new bit and more bolts. There should be a good stack of sport lines on this short wall when I'm done which is rare for around Halifax. I think new climbers will enjoy this wall.
G

Bully Wall - part trois

Dave (Lion's Head) Voltan was in town for a few days and I easily convinced him to climb out at Bully wall Saturday. While driving there it was raining and it didn't look to good for climbing. Once we were under Bully wall though the hard projects were dry so we quickly warmed up and jumped on the projs. We made more progress and then chalked a direct start under the main line. The direct start on its own is double digit. Dave was impressed with the wall and kept raving about Lion's Head sport climbing in ON. Time to make some fall plans maybe?
G

Shown here Dave working the direct start on Bully wall. Hard!

Bully wall - part deux

Stamp on the v7 warm-up


Today Stamp, Scooter, and I went out to Bully wall for some climbing before hurricane Bill arrived. We warmed up a bit and did a new low ball traverse that was quite burly for a warm-up (v7/8). We then moved on to the Bully wall project. That thing is intimidating and everyone in the end made some progress. We made some great progress on the arete project on the right side of Bully wall which is going to be really cool.

Scott watching the waves swarming in below Bully wall.

Bully Wall (in Nova Scotia!)

Today I did some work at the BOLO shop. It took me longer than expected and it was 5pm by the time I left and wasn't sure if I should drive out to Bully wall. But I did go and climbed about 2 hours by myself. That seems to be my trend this summer. Easier to plan and honestly less hassle. And I don't mind having some alone time to listen to music, relax and ponder by the ocean. Back at the Bully wall the gem project that will climb straight out the steepness is super duper good. Quality. The crux is going to be at the end. The start is maybe v6. So I climbed as high as I could without a spotter then just figured out what could be the sequence up higher. This thing is going to be incredible once it goes. It has me psyched. Aside from this steep cave there are other fun boulder problems. Some are steep with holds and remind me a bit of the gymnasium at Hueco Tanks. Really fun.

photo: start of gem project

Bolting

Today I rebolted a route called "Enervator" 5.12b at Main face in Musquodoboit Harbour. The old bolts were put in over 15 yrs ago and were quite rusted. I also rapped down on a steep sharp arete that could be a nice line. I was all alone at the cliff today and it was beautiful. I went for a swim and there were few bugs. I didn't climb today but re-bolting this thing gave me a little workout.
G

Boulderfest

Got back today from Boulderfest. It was super hot on the island and it actually made it hard to climb. Many people opted to climb Saturday evening instead of the afternoon. 74 people came out for the event with the majority from Halifax and the others from NB, ON, Maine, and New Zealand. I set a personal goal to attempt 100 points climbing only v7s and harder. With the intense heat I knew this would even be harder. Since I was helping with registration I only got on the island at 3:30pm. After 62 points I needed to start taping my fingers. Once I reached 84 points it was 7pm and I was dehydrated. This year the diner was great. CNS and Todd organized pasta, salad, bread and more which was a break from the usual hamburger barbecue. Temps were starting to drop and many people began heading back out for a night session. I went out to see if I could score the missing 16 points to reach my goal of 100 but at 11:30pm I called it quits with a final score of 99! I was still content with my performance seeing how hot it was. Sean and GZ had some fireworks later that night and the campfire was a must. Sunday I just chilled and helped Todd with Pulldown Productions do some shooting for his next film. Always good times when it's sunny on Dover!
Here is what my final scorecard looked like (in order):
- Behave v7 (1st go warmup)
- No dents v8 (2nd go)
- Grippe d'homme v7 (1st go)
- Grippe d'homme sit down v8 (1st go)
- White Lobster v8 (2nd go)
- Smokey and da bandit v8 (2nd go)
- Blacksmith v9 (1st go)
- Third whale v7 (1st go)
- I heel good v7 (1st go)
- White trash v8 (1st go)
- Exciter v7 (1st go)
- Decepticon v7 (1st, go night session)
- Brendan's moped v8 (night session)
TL 99 points

word!

G

Another Musquodoboit boulder testpiece

Last Sunday Rich showed me this boulder he found a few years back near the road for Columbus wall. It is 50' from the main road and has 2-3 nice lines on it. I went back today and sent one of them calling it Snap-on v8. It's the nicest looking line starting with a sit and climbing the centreline. It was quite frustrating while working on this and other lines cause holds kept snappping off. That is the problem so often here around Halifax. When working on harder lines granite edges are very fragile and most of them break off with ease.

Boulderfest 2009, August 1-2

Bfest is coming up soon and I'm crossing my fingers the weather will cooperate. Dover Island is one of the best spots to climb I have ever been to. Tickets are still available for purchase at Ground Zero, Rock Court, Trail Shop, MEC, and through CNS's website. The organizers are planning on having a friendly comp for people who are interested. For the advance category it looks like it might be v7 and over where a v7 is worth 7 points, a v8 8 points, and so on. The total amount of points if you sent all v7s and harder on Dover would be 187. My goal is to reach at least 100pts. Here is my ticklist for bfest:
Out of gas 7 pts
Behave 7 pts
Grippe d'homme 7 pts
I heel good 7 pts
3rd whale 7 pts
Decepticon 7 pts
Exciter 7 pts
White trash 8 pts
Grippe d'homme SDS 8 pts
No dents 8 pts
Smokey and da bandit 8 pts
The great white lobster 8 pts
Brendan's moped 8 pts
Blacksmith 9 pts

total 106 pts


Other v7 and harder not on immediate ticklist:
Acrobat 7 pts
Bloody arete 8 pts
Man of action 9 pts
Shadow in motion 9 pts
Community service 9 pts
Pitbull 9 pts
Stone slinger 10 pts
Horizontal matter 10 pts
Exciter SDS 10 pts


see you there!!

Ghislain

note photo: Me on One Scoop v8 now gone somewhere in the ocean from a winter storm! You will be missed One Scoop! RIP.

BOLO and LOC projects

My buddy John Bowles drove down this weekend to climb and finish off some work with BOLO. With this rainy weather we did more work than climbing but today was good for climbing. We manage to climb the stand (v7) to the foundation project at Polly's Cove and an easier sit down to the left which is around v8. Photos of new BOLO shapes to come soon!
G

Engaged

Rockies are awesome! Fiona and I got engaged on this trip! Acephale blew my mind. Can't wait to go back next year. Good to see old friends too.

G

June update 1

I'm still shaping new volumes. Here's a big pinch I just finished this week that I didn't have time to finish for Nationals. I started working on a new series (not pinches) which I think will be popular. Went to Dover last Saturday with some new climbers and the weather was prime. Dover is so fun. So chill.
Next week I am flying out to Calgary to visit Fiona for a week. I am so psyched. We are going to go camping and hiking in the rockies and planning on getting one climbing day in. The last bouldering world cup was held last weekend in Netherlands. Take a look at their website they recorded the event.

GL

Planet of the Apes, Digby Neck - Nova Scotia

Today I finally checked out the Planet of the Apes in Sandy Cove located on the Digby Neck. Derick and Sarah gave me a tour of the condensed area of basalt boulders. It was cool to see some new boulders and especially of basalt. The boulders were of good size and there was some steep lines on decent holds. The majority of the lines hover in the v3 range. The hardest stuff I climbed today was some v7 and v8 first ascent. If you want to experience something new you should drive out to the planet of apes.
Ghislain on the FA of "Stick with your guns" v7

Bouldering Nationals 2009

Back home after a long drive from Montreal for Allez-Up's Bouldering Nationals. Had a blast with everyone there. Bolo volumes were present during finals (see pyramid in photo). Check out tour de bloc's website for media and results. Big up to Men's Open champion John Bowles for representing the east coast!!!

Eva Pepin-Helie on Final #4, Women's OPEN Champion, photo: Aidas Rygelis

Bolo and ghosts?

I have been doing a ton of work on Bolo volumes. After class or work I drive out to the shop in West Dover and begin fiberglassing, cutting, grinding, sanding, and more. Volumes take an enormous amout of work and anybody who produces them I have their respect. So lately I have been putting in long hours in the evenings and every so often I think I see something move in the corner of my eye. Was it my imagination? Me buzzing from the fumes? Or was it ghosts? I've heard stories of ghosts in that neighborhood from locals. Maybe our volumes will have special powers!!

Made the last shape for nationals tonight. Getting ready to drive out to Montreal.

GL

Canadian Bouldering Nationals - Montreal May 16-17 - LIVE FEED!

This year's Canadian Bouldering Nationals will be held at Montreal's Allez-Up. They hosted the event in 2005 and it was huge. Now they are hosting plus Drtopo will be present filming the entire weekend broadcasting live on the internet. Qualifiers, Finals, interviews, and lots more. It will be pro. So check in next weekend for the actions. drtopo.com/tdb

A small crew from NB and NS will be driving out and competing. I will be out there too helping with the setting crew and then filming on Sunday.

LOC day

Keith Swyer on Loose Shoes (v5) at the Eggs in LOC.

We wanted to head out to Dover but it was too last minute and couldn't reach our ride so we hiked in to Memorial and the Eggs in the LOC. Good day of climbing right before the rain arrived.

Skills Inventory (v8) FA, (LOC)

I've been re-visiting this area in the LOC which Jeremy had told me about. There is this one boulder problem that had been worked on but never sent which picked my curiousity. After seeing it I couldn't believe nobody would of climbed this a long time ago. I figured out the sequence in a session but my skin was worked. Next time out it went down 2nd go. One of the best lines around in my opinion.

bouldering season in Halifax

Yesterday I went out with some friends at Hephalump and Chebucto Head. Conditions are great right now for bouldering. I am realizing more and more that some of the testpieces around here have extremely cryptic beta! It is unbelievable sometimes. I can try problems that I put up many years ago and it will take me a long time to remember the sequence. Sometimes for problems I should be able to resend in just a few goes. It reminds me of Fontainebleau. Very beta intensive. I think my next book could be on testpiece beta.
photo by Aidas Rygelis. 4 am (v9?) unrepeated at Chebucto Head.

Atlantic Regionals March 2009

Last Saturday was the Tour de bloc regionals at UNB. I was back on my old turf to set and head-judge the comp. I always enjoy climbing and setting at that gym since that is where I first started climbing and I have some fond memories. In the past we have struggled with attendance but this one was enjoyable for all organizers as around 50 climbers from all over participated. We ran qualifiers for OPEN in the morning and REC & Experienced in the afternoon. Finals went smoothly I thought and I hooked up a live feed which same friends and family enjoyed in the comfort of their home.
The Men's OPEN field was pretty strong and I really didn't know who would take top spots. And in the end local man John Bowles grabbed 1st despite a finger injury.

photos by Ann Butler / top: Krissy Lunney on finals #3, bottom: Florian Muth about to send Finals #1

Injuries...

Some people asked me recently if I've ever had serious climbing injuries and I replied no. I mean sometimes I got the occasional finger pulley "tweak" but nothing serious. Well, except that time in Quebec when a crimp snapped off and my leg crashed on a sharp stump. It caused a hematoma in my thigh. I think I pulled one tendon in my entire climbing life despite my lack of warm-up practice. Yesterday I was climbing this project at the gym on a 45 when I fell something tweak in my knee. I knew I had done something but I was 2 moves away from sending so I did and jumped off. Dam. How lame. Injury climbing on plastic! It hurt but I could still climb for a bit. When I went to Fiona's I asked her dad and he told me it probably wasn't a ligament but more the cartilege in my knee. It happens to football players. So that is good news. It's super stiff in the morning but once I get going it gets better. I'll be ok in a week or so. I'm just going to break from climbing for that time. I'm busy with school anyway so that's good. There's 2-1/2 wks left before I drive up to NB to set the Tour de Bloc regionals at UNB. I always like going there as that's where climbing all started for me. The club has always been a great spot to climb and train. People are pysched and it's hella cheap to climb there. During my last trip to Fred'ton I bought a new impact drill that I will be happy to try out. The trip was so snowy. It fell over 40cm in 24hrs (see photo). Yes so the regionals should be a good time. We're introducing a "team" option so people can form a team and compete with other teams to see who can climb most problems. Stay tuned...
zig

Tour de Bloc Halifax - Jan. 31, 2009

Last Saturday was the last TDB local in the maritimes. We had a good crew come out and test themselves on 30 blocs. Travis Van Ryn from Ontario and Justin Jones from Manitoba made the trip for the comp as did the New Brunswick crew. The open field saw steep competition and in the end local boy Ben Smith grabbed 1st place. Holly Reid won the title in women's open. I look forward in setting regionals in Fredericton, NB in March as we are expecting a good turnout.
John Bowles flashing bloc #2 in open finals. photo: Aidas Rygelis

TV5

Watch a preview clip

TV5 shot an episode on bouldering on Dover Island last September. All in french.

Bridgetown

2 weeks ago I was setting with Derick Smith in Annapolis Royal for the first youth comp in the valley and we talked about access for Bridgetown's boulders. It turns out that the boulders that were on private property might see some climbers again in 2009. Plus there's the new potential in Sandy Cove for bouldering that looks and sounds like a blast. I will be checking it out early spring. This week Chris Eager sent me a video he shot and edited from some old Bridgetown footage. Check it out!
http://vimeo.com/2987766?pg=transcoded_embed&sec=2987766